Product Support

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FAQ's - Salt Water Chlorinator

My water test shows no signs of chlorine in my pool
The lights on my chlorinator will not stay on 100%, even if I press the + button
How do I know how old my Cell is?
I'm having trouble with Calcium build-up on my Cell electrodes
My Chlorinator does not have auto clean, how do I keep the Cell clean?
How important is a self-cleaning chlorinator?
Why should I buy a genuine WATERMAID® cell?
What is the warranty on my WATERMAID® product?
What is the advantage of having 6000 ppm of salt?

My water test shows no signs of Chlorine in my pool

Test indications can vary depending on the time of day the test sample is taken and where in the pool it was taken. It is best to take a sample from the outlet flow, where the chlorinated water re-enters the pool. It should be 0.5 ppm higher at the outlet than elsewhere in the pool.

If the lights are on the chlorine production display (or the needle on the amp meter is registering), your chlorinator is producing chlorine.

If an algaecide containing Benzalkonium Chloride has been added to the pool within the last 3 – 4 weeks, this compound reacts with chlorine until it is all gone, leaving a nil Chlorine reading. To overcome the addition of Benzalkonium Chloride, you may need to manually add Chlorine, preferably liquid chlorine to obtain a free Chlorine reading again. As a guide, about 20 (TWENTY) litres will be required.

It is preferable to add a Copper-based algaecide (eg. Copper Sulphate) to treat an algae problem, as it does not affect the Chlorine in the water.

Check that your running times are set correctly to suit the time of year. As a guide:

Summer running times are 10 – 14 hours per day, preferably at night when the sun is off the pool. N.B. Off-peak electricity hours in Sydney are from 10pm until 7am.
Winter running times are 4-8 hours per day, preferably at night when the sun is off the pool. N.B. Off-peak electricity hours in Sydney are from 10pm until 7am.
If solar heating has been installed, some running times will need to be set to operate during sunlight hours.

If a sand filter is installed, has it been backwashed in the last month? Has the sand been changed in the last 5 years? With regular backwashing, the edges of the sand become rounded and do not filter as effectively over time. Therefore, the sand will need to be changed about every 5 years. A good way to check if your filter is filtering properly is to hold a sample of the pool water in a clear glass up to the outside light. If you can see 'floaties', first try backwashing the filter several times, for 3 minutes each turn. If there are still 'floaties' after several turns, then the sand will need to be changed.

Also check your pH is within the correct range (7.2 – 7.8). Within this range, chlorine is more effective as a sanitiser, as there is a higher percentage of Hypochlorous Acid (HOCl) in the water.

A simple rule we follow is …. if the pool is clean and clear and sparkling, leave it alone!

The lights on my chlorinator will not stay on 100%, even if I press the + button:

Check the salt level required for the model of Cell that you have and adjust if necessary. (Refer to "Replacement Cells" page)
If the current season is winter, then it is normal to see only the low range lights (indicated by 3 amber lights) due to the low water temperature.
Check the age of your Cell (see next FAQ below). If it is older than 5 years, have your Cell tested by an Authorised Dealer. The Cell should produce more than 12 amps (or 12 grams) per hour of Chlorine.

How do I know how old my Cell is?

WATERMAID® Cells are engraved with a date. It is located at the top of the Cell, on the plastic casing, usually to the right of the round 'chimney pot'. The date will be in the format YYMM or YYYYMM. For example, 0208 = 2002, August. If there are two dates, the more recent one is a rebuild date – when the Cell was rebuilt.

I'm having trouble with Calcium build-up on my Cell electrodes

The WATERMAID® auto clean feature is designed to operate at no more than 150 ppm of Calcium hardness. The reading for Calcium hardness can be measured at your local pool shop.

If it is greater than 150 ppm, take steps to lower the hardness. This may involve draining about 1/3 of your pool water in extreme cases.

Do NOT add any products to the water containing Calcium, as this will simply build up on the Cell electrodes. This includes granular/powdered chlorine which contains up to 60% Calcium.

Do NOT use excessive amounts of pool acid, as this will eat away at the walls of your pool and release Calcium into the water.

Watermaid Pty Ltd strongly recommends the addition of one 25Kg bag of Magnesium Chloride (water softener) to the pool each year. It softens any deposit that is likely to form, preventing it from clinging to the Cell electrodes.

Click here to view information on The Use of Magnesium in Swimming Pools.

My Chlorinator does not have auto clean, how do I manually clean the Cell?

To manually clean the Cell:

Click here to download more information on WATERMAID® Cell Maintenance.

How important is a self-cleaning chlorinator?

The need for a self-cleaning chlorinator can be avoided if:

NO products containing Calcium are added to the pool for hardness. This includes granular/powdered Chlorine which contains up to 40% Calcium and most products used to treat 'hardness' in pools.

Products for hardness are usually recommended for two main reasons:
i) to prevent corrosion to heaters & metal fixtures in contact with the water. The hardness level can be raised using a 'soft' hardness such as Magnesium Chloride. By adding this instead of Calcium Carbonate, it will raise the hardness level in the water and more importantly, it will ensure that any precipitate likely to form will stay soft and mushy, and less likely to cling to the Cell electrodes.

ii) to protect the surface of the pool. Newly surfaced pools can be protected by adding Sodium Bicarbonate (pH buffer), as this will react with the Calcium already contained in the surface make-up to form an impervious 'skin' or protective layer over the surface of the pool to ensure a long life from the pool surface.
Sodium Bicarbonate (also known as "pH Buffer") is used to adjust the pH rather than pool acid (Hydrochloric Acid). Any excess amount of pool acid added to the pool can eat away at pool walls, thereby releasing Calcium into the water. As its name suggests, it buffers the pH to within the right range (7.2 – 7.8) for pools, both up and down.

Why should I buy a genuine WATERMAID® cell?

Ultimately the choice is yours. However, WATERMAID® Cells are designed for WATERMAID® Power Supplies and have established a reputation for lasting on average between 5 and 8 years. WATERMAID® Cells installed on inert surfaced pools (such as fibreglass and vinyl-lined) which have minimal Calcium build up, have been known to last up to 20 years.

It is often the case that generic Cells use inferior materials. Skimpier materials equate to a shorter Cell life (on average 2 – 3 years) and less Chlorine production from the Cell. This can mean you might even need to run your equipment longer each day or manually add chlorine to supplement the shortfall; or need to replace the Cell several times over.

BEWARE: Some sellers are passing off generic Cells as genuine WATERMAID® Cells, when they are not.

If you have been sold a generic Cell, as a genuine WATERMAID® Cell and are dissatisfied with the product you received, lodge a complaint with the ACCC (Australian Consumer and Competition Commission).

The ACCC's phone number is: 1300 302 502
Quote this reference number: #1063942.

Click here to see pictures of some common non-genuine Cells.

What is the warranty on my WATERMAID® product?

Please refer to the model-relevant Owner's Handbook at the top of this page.

What is the advantage of having 6000 ppm of salt?

A salt level of 9000 ppm is isotonic with body tissue, so in the case of accidental immersion, water at close to this level will cause less damage to lungs and other body organs than water without salt. It also means less wrinkling of the skin and no irritation to the eyes.